What is PVD gold? How it differs from regular gold plating

PVD gold is not solid gold. It is a gold-colored surface coating applied using a vacuum-based method called Physical Vapor Deposition. PVD is used on jewelry to create a thin, even, and durable finish. When combined with a stable base material, such as 316L stainless steel, the result is a piece of jewelry that is practical for regular use and requires relatively little maintenance.

PVD is often described as a better alternative to standard gold plating. This is a reasonable simplification, but the full truth is more nuanced. Durability also depends on the jewelry's base material, pretreatment, coating composition, friction, chemicals, and how the jewelry is cared for.

In this guide, we will go through what PVD means, how the process works, how PVD differs from traditional gold plating, and what you can do to keep your gold-colored jewelry looking good for longer.

In this article

• What does PVD mean?
• How does PVD coating work?
• What is the difference between PVD and standard gold plating?
• How long does PVD gold last?
• Can you shower with PVD gold?
• Can PVD gold fade or scratch?
• How to clean PVD jewelry?
• How does PVD differ from other gold finishes?
• Common myths about PVD
• Frequently asked questions

What does PVD mean?

PVD is an abbreviation for Physical Vapor Deposition. It is a collective term for processes where a solid material is transferred to a vapor phase in a vacuum chamber and then condenses as a thin coating on another surface.

The technique is used in many areas, including tools, watches, electronics, and decorative metal products. In jewelry, PVD is used to create color, shine, and a more durable surface.

When a product is described as 18k PVD gold, 18k usually refers to the gold color of the finish or the gold-based material used in the surface process. It does not mean that the entire piece of jewelry consists of 18-karat solid gold.

The base material is therefore important. Serein Arc's jewelry uses 316L stainless steel beneath the gold-colored PVD surface. The steel provides the jewelry with its main shape, stability, and corrosion resistance, while the PVD finish provides the gold-colored surface.

How does PVD coating work?

The PVD process is carried out in a controlled vacuum chamber. The jewelry is first thoroughly cleaned and prepared, as grease, dust, and unevenness can affect how well the coating adheres.

A simplified process looks like this:

1. The surface is cleaned. The jewelry must be free from oil, dirt, and residue.
2. The jewelry is placed in a vacuum chamber. The air is reduced so that the process can be controlled.
3. Coating material is released. The material is evaporated or dislodged from a source by, for example, sputtering or arc evaporation.
4. Particles are transported through the chamber. They move towards the jewelry's surface.
5. A thin layer builds up. The material condenses and forms a continuous surface coating.

The illustration is intended to explain the principle, not exact proportions. A real PVD coating is very thin, and the specific layer structure can vary between manufacturers and products.

What is the difference between PVD and standard gold plating?

The most important difference lies in how the surface layer is applied. Traditional gold plating is usually done by electroplating, where the jewelry is placed in a liquid bath and an electric current helps metal deposit on the surface. PVD, instead, takes place in a vacuum, where material is transported in the vapor phase and condenses on the product.

Both methods can produce a beautiful gold-colored finish. However, the quality varies greatly within both categories. A well-made electroplating can be better than a poorly executed PVD process. Base material, cleaning, layer thickness, adhesion, and quality control play a major role.

How long does PVD gold last?

There is no serious standard time that applies to all PVD jewelry. A piece of jewelry can look good for a long time with normal and careful use, while another may wear out faster due to friction, chemicals, or a different manufacturing process.

The most important factors are:

• Base material: A stable and corrosion-resistant base provides better conditions for the surface finish.
• Pretreatment: The surface must be clean and properly prepared for the coating to adhere well.
• PVD process: Temperature, vacuum, coating material, and process time affect the result.
• Where the jewelry is worn: Rings and bracelets are often exposed to more friction than earrings and necklaces.
• How often it is used: Daily use means more contact with skin, clothing, and surroundings.
• Chemicals: Chlorine, strong cleaning agents, and certain cosmetic products can affect the surface.
• Storage: Jewelry rubbing against each other can get scratches and wear marks.

Be cautious of claims that a PVD coating will last an exact number of years or never fade. Such promises can only be supported if they apply to a specific product and are based on clearly documented testing.

Can you shower with PVD gold?

PVD jewelry on a base material like 316L stainless steel is generally better suited for contact with water than many simple gold-colored fashion jewelry. Ordinary shower water is usually less stressful than chlorine, saltwater, and strong cleaning agents.

This does not mean that all exposure is neutral. Shampoo, conditioner, soap, and skin products can build up on the surface and dull the jewelry. Repeated contact with chlorinated water or saltwater can also strain both the surface finish and settings.

To protect the jewelry:

• Rinse off residues of soap, sweat, salt, or chlorine.
• Dry the jewelry thoroughly with a soft cloth.
• Remove rings when cleaning, washing dishes, and working with strong products.
• Avoid leaving the jewelry wet for extended periods.

Also, read our guide on jewelry you can shower with for a more detailed review of water, exercise, and everyday care.

Can PVD gold fade or scratch?

Yes. All surface coatings can change over time. PVD is valued for its durability, but the jewelry is still exposed to friction, impact, chemicals, and daily wear and tear.

Rings are particularly vulnerable as they come into contact with tables, bags, exercise equipment, handles, and other hard surfaces. Small scratches often appear first on edges and raised details.

A color change can be due to several things:

• The surface is covered in skin oil, soap, or skincare products.
• The coating has small scratches that change how light is reflected.
• The surface has been exposed to chlorine, strong cleaning, or prolonged friction.
• The base material starts to show in highly exposed areas.

Always clean the jewelry gently before concluding that the color has faded. A thin layer of skin oil can make a shiny surface significantly duller.

How to clean PVD jewelry?

PVD jewelry normally does not require advanced cleaning. A mild method reduces the risk of scratching or affecting the surface.

1. Fill a bowl with lukewarm water.
2. Add a small amount of mild, unscented soap.
3. Gently wipe or wash the jewelry with your fingers or a very soft cloth.
4. Rinse off all soap residue.
5. Dry the jewelry completely with a clean, lint-free cloth.

Avoid:

• Toothpaste and other abrasive products
• Rough sponges or hard brushes
• Silver polish and metal polish
• Strong cleaning agents
• Long soaking without need
• Storing multiple pieces of jewelry loosely together

Preferably put on your jewelry after perfume, hairspray, lotion, and sunscreen have dried. In the evening, do the opposite: remove your jewelry before cleaning your skin.

How does PVD differ from other gold finishes?

PVD is often compared to standard gold plating, but there are several other categories. The terms describe different combinations of base material, gold content, application method, and layer thickness.

PVD is particularly attractive for those who want a gold-coloured design, relatively easy maintenance, and a lower price than solid gold. Solid gold, on the other hand, has a different material value and lacks a thin gold-coloured surface layer that can wear off.

Which option is best therefore depends on what you prioritise: price, precious metal value, reparability, durability, or simple everyday use.

You can read more about base materials in our comparison between 316L stainless steel and sterling silver.

Common myths about PVD gold

Wondering why some metals leave green marks on your skin? Read our guide on why jewellery turns skin green.

Frequently asked questions about PVD gold

Is PVD gold real gold?

PVD gold is not solid gold. It is a gold-coloured surface coating applied using a PVD process. The exact materials the coating contains depend on the product's specifications and manufacturer.

Is PVD better than regular gold plating?

PVD often provides a hard and durable surface finish with good adhesion. It is therefore generally well-suited for everyday jewellery. However, quality depends on the base material, pre-treatment, and the specific process, so PVD is not automatically better in every single case.

How long does 18k PVD gold last?

There is no exact lifespan that applies to all jewellery. Durability is affected by friction, frequency of use, chemicals, water, storage, and how well the coating was applied.

Can you shower with PVD jewellery?

PVD on 316L stainless steel is generally suitable for regular contact with normal water. Rinse off soap residue and dry the jewellery. Be more careful with chlorine, saltwater, and strong chemicals.

Can PVD gold turn green?

The typical green discolouration is primarily associated with copper and copper-containing alloys. The PVD coating itself is not the same as copper, but the entire jewellery's base material and components determine how it reacts over time.

Is PVD hypoallergenic?

PVD describes a surface process, not an allergy promise. Skin-friendliness depends on the base material, other components, nickel release, and individual sensitivity. Stop using the jewellery if your skin becomes red, irritated, or itchy.

Can PVD be scratched?

Yes. A PVD surface can be hard and durable, but it can still be scratched by hard surfaces, sand, metal objects, and repeated friction.

How do you clean PVD gold?

Use lukewarm water, a small amount of mild soap, and a soft cloth. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Avoid silver polish, toothpaste, rough brushes, and abrasive cleaners.

Sources and further reading

• Santa Fe Symposium: Physical Vapor Deposition of Decorative Coatings for Jewelry
• Korvus Technology: Introduction to Physical Vapour Deposition
• Swedish Chemicals Agency: Metals and skin contact